Utensils are not, for most men, a deep and abiding passion. Spoons, forks, spatulas and tongs—we use them, we respect them, but we do not covet them.

Knives are the exception. Knives we can get behind. A knife is both utensil and weapon, an extension of your dominant arm, a legitimately useful kitchen tool that is both beautiful and boss.

When we ask her how we can help with dinner, what does she always say? She says we can cut something. Cut, chop, mince, dice and especially carve. These are things we can do. Things we want to do. And to do them well, or at least to enjoy them as much as possible, we may just find ourselves coveting a great blade.

So where to start? Seattle-area veteran bladesmith Bob Kramer (pictured here, in full knife-making regalia) suggests the 8-inch chef’s knife—it’s paragon of comfort and versatility. A well-built 8-incher, Kramer says, can handle everything from turkey carving and fish filleting to a chiffonade of herbs. It can also “render fruit,” Kramer says. “Like if you wanted to cut the skin off oranges or grapefruit or pineapples, it does all of that fine. It can handle an apple no problem.”

Kramer would know. His own custom knives are so coveted that you must enter a lottery—not a waiting list, mind you, a lottery—just for a shot at getting one. But now Kramer has partnered with Zwilling (a brand that’s been making cutlery since 1731) to create a line of seven knives that anyone can buy: a slicer, a paring knife, a utility knife, a Japanese-style santoku knife, and chef’s knives of 6, 10 and, yes, 8 inches.

So we asked Kramer for advice on knife selection: what to look for in a blade, and what makes a good one a good one. Here’s the lowdown:

BLADE MATERIAL: You can go with stainless steel which, you know, doesn’t stain. Or you can do carbon steel, which is Kramer’s strong preference. It provides “the ultimate edge keenness and ease of sharpening,” Kramer says, and is the choice of most sushi chefs. Kramer’s own knives use a carbon steel known as 52100, the material used in ball bearings, which is tough enough to reduce chipping. The catch is just a little bit of maintenance (see below).

THICKNESS OF BLADE: Go thin, Kramer says. “Thin blades mean less cutting resistance—think about a Ferrari slicing through the air, as compared to an SUV plowing through the air. His own set, he notes, is three times thinner than some competitors. “Yes, a thicker edge is stronger,” he says. “But I want a razor to cut my food, not a maul.”

CONSTRUCTION: Notice the details. Check the bolster (the knobby part where the blade meets the handle) and the handle—what are they made of? “If a guy wants a bitchin’ kitchen knife, which could also be considered a modern heirloom, then brass and real wood are needed to fill that bill,” Kramer says. “These knives will change and patina over time; each will be unique.”

CARE: If you get carbon steel, don’t put it away wet. Treat it like a cast-iron skillet. “This is like grandpa’s knife, that if you leave it in the sink it’ll rust,” Kramer says. So when you’re done using it—especially if you’ve been cutting acidic foods—rinse it, and wipe it dry. Never put a Kramer knife, or any chef’s knife, in the sink or the dishwasher.

And, with, no further ado: